Paul Helbers returned to the scene on Thursday to show his new SS’ 11 collection. But it wasn’t the scene of a crime since Louis Vuitton isn’t very likely to be arrested by the fashion police for any sort of sartorial mistake. Neither was it a hipster or trend scene; Louis Vuitton doesn’t do those either. A few brands are lucky to be good and big enough to stand above the ‘colour of the season’ debate, and Louis Vuitton is one of them. No, if there was a ‘scene’ to return to, it was the Rue Curial venue that has become a bit of a favourite Paris spot for Marc Jacobs and Paul Helbers.
The collection touched on several themes; worldwide influences that brought out a diverse collection in terms of colours. White, beige, grey and khaki were staple shades, giving room to mustard yellow and a strong green tone to shine. Helbers went for layering and we often we several pieces underneath an intricately crafted tailored jacket. Sleeves were rolled up, which – in combination with stone washed jeans and white leather jackets – perhaps was a nod towards the 1980s? But if we’re doing the decade thing, the grey cargo pants was surely a sign of the 1990s? Again, with Louis Vuitton, such matters seem trivial. Focus instead on the plethora of scarfs that was almost worn as garments, and enjoy the LV scene.
Dazed Digital: What was your main inspiration?
Paul Helbers: The idea was a digital bohemian, someone who travels in his mind and takes free imaginary trips when he wishes.
DD: Where’s he going?
Paul Helbers: A Shanghai casino, which is represented by the Chinese silk; skydiving in the Amazons, shown by the military, jungle and rainforest patterns, strong colours and parachute details. Lastly there’s the Scandinavian midsummer night, experienced from a helicopter. It represents a more clean and pure approach. I wanted these three aesthetics to clash…
DD: I like the big chunky scarfs, they’re like garments in themselves…
Paul Helbers: Yes, it’s a tattoo print, an old shadow puppet and star signs that Scott Campbell transferred it in to two prints for us.
DD: What will you pick out for yourself?
Paul Helbers: Just the simple linen jacket that I’m wearing now
DD: What did you think of the show?
Pharrell Williams: Can I be honest with you? I go to a lot of shows but I never like the whole collection – but in this one, I loved everything!
DD: Like what?
Pharrell Williams: There was a green look that was incredible; the sequined shoes were incredible, the bags with the embroidered dragons on the side were great…