Sketchbooks of references that ranged from Michael Jackson to Linda Evangelista to Ferris Bueller were given to guests at the show,but looking at the clothes, there's almost no point in trying to connect the garments to the reference points. Like Phoebe Philo's last collection for Celine, the clothes can be taken at face value. If Philo is going to reduce clothes to the minimum  so that we're left swooning over specifics such as the placement of pockets, the seams on a patent leather trench and the frayed edges on a loose nude shirt, then a sketchbook of references is only the bonus backstory to a collection where the words "Must Buy" keep on popping up.

Navy was a key colour to come leaping out in the outerwear and the double breasted jackets and dresses that had little nudges of the Celine of old. Leather was put to clever use in the tight long-sleeved t-shirts as panels on coats, on oversized pockets on jackets as well as in bigger statement pieces such as the high-necked trench and the wrapover skirt in a tulip shape. Reduced and minimal in Philo's hands isn't about losing texture as white lace was moulded into shirts with square pockets and fluffy sheepskin and flecked wool are used in the broad range of outerwear that will give women a plethora of investment options.

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