The usual Kawakubo trademarks of red tartan versus monochrome appeared this season with a nod to past collections featuring unexpected lumps and awkward bumps. The bulbous padding used recreationally proved to be a talking point, altering the human form (let alone female) to an almost unrecognisable state.

From bodices to thick wool coats and floating white meringue dresses with delicate cap sleeves and contoured detailing, everything was shaped to a dream-like vision. Folded padding and layered materials seemed to have a life of its own, breathing like wrinkled skin. Seemingly limbless pale-faced models sauntered with a daze-like stare, cocooned in the bubble-wrap pieces and veil-like sheer ribbons.

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