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Viktor and Rolf Womenswear A/W10

Show spectacle of the season could possibly go to the Dutch duo.

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

After the physical theatrics of last season's "recession-inspired" cut away tulle pieces, expectations were exalted for Viktor & Rolf and this time round, the drama took place on the catwalk whilst the clothes were firmly grounded. Their "Glamour Factory" this season pumped out clothes that were about the nuts and bolts of clothes with transformative qualities that warranted the performance on the runway which started with 90S face Kristen McMenamy walking in 10+ layers  that were then removed and put on ensuing models creating numerous combinations and going along different routes of transformation. “It elaborates on a couture show we staged ten years ago, when we dressed Maggie Rizer on stage in 9 layers. This season's show goes much further. The couture show was an ode to exclusivity. Its only purpose was to express an idea. This time around, we wanted to show the possibility to be BOTH wearable AND extreme at the same time!," explains Viktor and Rolf. Reversable, removable, detachable, multi-textural, length-changing, sleeve-making and just about every thinkable trick was demonstrated with these clothes which are in themselves, inspired by factories complete with conveyor belt shoes. Multi-functional clothes often feel like a gimmick but as Viktor & Rolf pumped out outfit after outfit, changing swiftly and also in time to the music, you had to believe that these clothes could do all those things. The final piece de resistance was a giant side-ruff skirt, reminiscent of last season's tulle structures that then turnd into an Elizabethan cape, as the last layer on McMenamy who looked empowered with her sartorial weight.

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