The focus of Maison Martin Margiela of late has been on the absence of Mr Margiela but if truth be told, who knows how long the house has been designing collections without a leader reining in it all in. MMM has always emphasised that their lab-coated employees all have an important part to play and so it's even more clear that this collection is a cohesive group effort that has shed away the unsettled nature of the past two seasons to get on with designing clothes for its fans. Masculinity was the emphasis of the collection and so it was a play on proportions with jacket and coat sleeves that were curved sideways in an exaggerated fashion and waistbands on trousers that were emphasised at the waist with structure. There was a tug and pull interaction between masculinity and femininity as the smeared lipstick, sheer chiffon panels trailing skirts and backing trousers jostled with the boxy jackets and enlarged cufflinks and chunky watch strap belts. An animalistic spirit was then introduced at the end with bulked out enlarged fur hats that sat on the head like a Native Indian headdresses which put the final statement touch on a collection with a strong and singular vision.
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