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Photography by Benoit Soualle

Giles Womenswear Womenswear A/W10

We were on cloud nine with a collection that revisits Giles' signature shapes.

Erwin Olaf's disturbingly picture perfect images were the catalyst for Giles' collection for his sophomore Paris show and this translated into beautifully preened girls that came out in softly elegant pieces that always twisted at the right times. Perhaps Giles also related to Olaf's penchant for the off-kilter beauty because as always even in amongst slightly mod-ish (or a 60s version of the future) dresses, corset tops and little jackets there's also something unexpected lurking. A puffa in a dulled metallic pink and silver pattern for instance surprises you as well as the gremlin-shaped leather bags that continue Deacon's love of unusual animania accessories. You're luxuriously and playfully encased with the sheepskin lined oversized hoods as well as the voluminous aviator jacket. The illustrations and whimsical cut-outs that Giles has also made his own in the past also feature but in a more controlled fashion, to mirror the picture of perfectoin that he was going for. We just know though that furry hoods and scaley gremlins might throw the perfection out of line and that's probably exactly what Giles had intended.

Dazed Digital: Can you tell us a bit about the starting point of the collection?
Giles Deacon: I was super inspired by Erwin Olaf, this Dutch surreal photographer and he takes these really beautiful photographs and they have this serene indifference about them.
There's a bit of oddness to them, not in an overly sinister or macabre way.
The colours are beautiful and everything is done perfectly and we wanted to capture that in the presentation of the girls.

DD: I also got other references in the collection too, for instance, some more cartoonish references.
Giles Deacon: I always try and get a bit of that into the collection and they develop as you go along. So I add them without being purely cartoony and that they have a sophistication to it, without sounding too lofty. It's something that I don't want to lose with what I do, the play of the two. It's kind of what I like in life. I like things that are beautiful and really special but I also like really daft things.

DD: In terms of shapes, it felt like you were revisiting things from past collection.
Giles Deacon: Yeah, definitely there were certain shift shapes, the corset pieces and they're kind of signatures for us. It's what people come to us to look for. We just want to develop them so that they become a recognisable thing.

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