Pin It

Damir Doma Womenswear A/W10

Doma's first womenswear collection hits a mature note.

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

Damir Doma quite rightly pointed out that for a designer like him, womenswear was always in the pipeline because elements of his menswear are easily transferable. Yet, he deliberately struck a cleaner and slightly more mature chord with his first womenswear collection that played with tension in volume. Lines were kept clean, fabrics flowed in neutral tones in shapes that whilst layered were also pared back. There were signatures such as exaggerated dhoti trousers and plenty of familiar jersey and washed silks that infiltrated the collection. If you were after another androgynous unisex line though, Doma's womenswear won't serve that purpose as it aims for a very specific kind of feminine appeal.

 Dazed Digital: You said womenswear was always part of the plan.
 Damir Doma: You always need a starting point and for me, it was menswear. There was always the idea of doing womenswear to broaden this vision though. It's not necessarily about keeping men and women  separate and in my case, it was very natural to do a womenswear collection. For some designers, they would do a certain kind of woman or a certain kind of man. With me, they flow into each other.

 DD: You don't mean for the clothes to be unisex though, right?
 Damir Doma: No not at all, a man couldn't wear this collection! The identity is also different. If you imagine my man's collection is very playful, very soft, drapey and prints-based. Whereas, my women's collection is much more mature, very clean - it's all about the neckline and shape - and it's very focused, I think and stripped down to the base.

 DD: But is that because this is your first womenswear collection?
 Damir Doma: No, I think it's because this is my vision of a strong and modern woman.

Visit our Entire Paris Fashion Week coverage »»