Through the ring of faded roses came a lot of easy and breezy 70s disco that tainted the frizzy voluminous hair and basically made all the dresses sway into motion. Roksanda Ilincic has always done modern and contemporary takes on opulence and decadence and there's no shortage of luxurious fabrics here. Her starting point was not necessarily a specific theme even though the Studio54 reference was clear enough, but her fabrics that went through satins, silk georgette, furs and crepes as well as adding smatterings of embellishment that never detract from the fact that Ilincic has a deft way with creating single seamed dresses that start with a lot of mannequin draping. There were also expansions into more separates and pieces of outerwear that are nothing less than suitably louche. The double way zip that went all the way up most dresses and skirts was a repeated featured from last season gave a cheeky twist to the elegant dresses.
Dazed Digital: What visual references were you drawing from with this collection?
Roksanda Ilincic: The collection started with fabrics and textures and as I was making it, I wanted to create a really optimistic feel and wanted to do something fun. I took inspiration from the music, hair and Studio 54 and Grace Coddington really. There weren't many redheads in the show unfortunately! It's not really about disco but about a sophisticated glamour.
DD: What textures/fabrics were you using this season?
Roksanda Ilincic: In the first portion of the show, I used a lot of woollen felts, jacquards, double georgettes, boucles - all those gorgeous woollen fabrics. You can sculpt them and also drape them too and I was particularly interested in the fabrics that you can drape as it's incredibly nice to get a draped dress with a fabric you'd normally use for a coat.
The silk satin pieces were all done by wrapping around the body and done with one seam.
DD: There's something a bit subversive/kinky about those double way zips you did on the dresses.
Roksanda Ilincic: I had them last season too but people didn't notice them as much as they were in gold but this time in black, they form lines on the body and yes, they do look subversive but at the same time, they're quite practical as you can make your slit as high as you want!
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