Louise Goldin's collection could not have been more distilled and steeled with intent this season. With her particular niche of super refined machine knitted material that she can then play and ply with until it bends to her will, it seemed apt that a loosely military (no shiny buttons or medals here) theme should develop, representing her hardened attitude and strictness towards building structure influenced by origami folds. In myrtle green, black and navy with flashes of red and yellow courtesy of the Swarvoski encrusted bike shorts, the armed forces were certainly at play and detailing such as the raised pockets and built in bullet holders was also Goldin's form of ammunition. In the end though, it was those structured shapes showing both sharp edges and curves that prevailed.

Dazed Digital: What was the idea behind the protective shapes in the collection?
Louise Goldin: I was looking at origami, first and foremost. I was looking at shapes made out of paper. At the same time, I wanted to do utilitarian and so I mixed the two. It developed from there really.

DD: It felt like you were pushing forward shapes that you had explored in previous collections.
Louise Goldin: I work very much like a regular womenswear designer except that I make the fabric myself. There's obviously technical difficulties with that when you're creating the fabrics and trying to develop shapes at the same time. I guess at the same time,  knitting and making your own fabric gives you the freedom to push yourself.

Visit our Entire London Fashion Week coverage »»