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Photography by Alex Sainsbury

Mark Fast Womenswear A/W10

Copper hues and knotted twists revs up the Fast track.

In contrast to Mary Katrantzou who attempted to move her work to a new place, Mark Fast has his place all sorted and the changes that he does make are largely undetected on the runway save for the growing volume of Fast's pieces seen in the draped capes/scarves and longer lengths that form asymmetric hip sashes. The little changes that he does make though mean that he can still propel himself, working within the strict fine gauge knitwear niche that beautifully hugs the curves (both large and small as demonstrated by the once again plus-size casting).

Dazed Digital: What references did you look at this season?
Mark Fast: I looked at Demetre Chiparus, a Romanian sculptor from the 1920s and did the most amazing sculptures inspired by the Ballet Russes so I wanted to recreate the movement and the effortless in the collection.

DD: You talked about those little changes that you make within your medium - how do you go about exploring those new techniques?
Mark Fast: You just sit at the knitting machine and experiment and you find something new, maybe an accident happens and you move that on. That's what makes it exciting for me because things happen that I can't predict. When I see the dress happen, it's like "Oh how did that happen?".

DD: Does it ever get monotonous working within such a strict niche?
Mark Fast: As long as you research. Sometimes you have moments where you don't have the inspiration. There are moments when it happens and moments when it doesn't.

DD: Where did the colours come from as it was quite a varied palette?
Mark Fast: The colours come from the bronzes and the silvers of the sculptures. It's like the iridescence of an oil slick because I wanted to get that pearl feeling.

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