The basis of the designers’ abstract Autumn/Winter 2010 collection was the seven metals of alchemy and the planets that control them: the first being “lead dominated by Saturn” followed by “silver dominated by the moon,” and other metals including iron, copper and tin. As the show began, the models marched onto the runway through a cloud of smoke and took their places in a circle around a painted alchemical star on the floor.
The first look was a long asymmetric black wool coat with a tall leather collar guarding the model’s face. It was followed by a luxurious leather jacket with a curved front zipper, and several dresses made out of winding rope in shades of copper, metallic blue and black. These body conscious dresses seemed to take on lives of their own as they encircled each model like ivy clinging to a tree. Other looks included flowing silk capes and leggings with sheer curvy cutouts. The collection was a true study of the female form as fabrics mimicked and mirrored the shapes of the models’ bodies.
Dazed Digital: What was the inspiration behind this season?
Gabriel Asfour: Alchemy and metals.
Adi Gil: Each metal has a planet that dominates the metal. For instance, gold is ruled by the sun, silver is ruled by the moon, and mercury by mercury.
Angela Donhauser: And the music we played was Tomita’s Clair de Lune / Snowflakes are Dancing.
DD: How are the three of you able to work together to achieve a common vision? Do you ever have disagreements?
GA: All the time!
AG: We still ask ourselves how do we do it, but we somehow do.
GA: And we know that it’s just clothing.
AD: I think it’s meant to be, we all love each other and support each other… it’s like a snowman! (laughs) We’re a little family.
DD: I loved the way you styled the hair and makeup, and how you used netting over the models’ faces. How did you decide upon it?
AG: I think it takes awhile, I cannot really describe how, but we wanted to do something wavy with the hair that would work with the curving lines of the clothing.
DD: What were the fabrics that you used?
GA: A lot of leather, wool, silks, chiffons.
AD: And a lot of rope!