It felt like Ohne Titel was stepping up to centre stage this season as the front row crowd was significantly more illustrious and that finally, their sensitivity to unexpected texture and fabrication techniques will be spotlighted. Flora Gill and Alexa Adams by using sportswear as a fabrication filter for their other ideas such as military and 19th century shapes. So a heavy dose of hand-worked mesh and netting were worked into panelled dresses and leggings and the essential Victoriana shapes were distilled into a more contemporary setting.
Dazed Digital: You've really refined your ideas and honed it down this season - what prompted that?
Alexa Adams: We wanted to make it essential, what we believed in most. Which is like the combination of materials that work for us - the leather, the knitwear, the meshes. So interesting combinations of new materials really.
DD: Was there any particular starting point for you?
Flora Gill: We were really trying to go for a sportswear take on athletic take on Victorian silhouettes really.
DD: How did you use Victorian silhouettes and prevent it from becoming too much like costume?
Alexa Adams: We wanted to toughen it up and take the shell shapes so that it doesn't become overly detailed or too vintage-y. Instead, it's about creating beautiful volumes that are refined, streamlined and aggressive.
DD: You always play with textures and new techniques - what did you play around with this season?
Flora Gill: Netting was a big part of it!
Alexa Adams: We were almost taking a magnified version of lace but making if completely technical fabrics for it. Also there was this interesting texture of stripe, like the Ottoman stripe, the stripe openwork with the Swarovski crystals.
Visit our Entire New York Fashion Week coverage »