Warm and cosy may be what many designers in New York are yearning for but Frank Tell managed to inject influences of Penelope Tree, Star Trek, Barbarella and African tribes into a collection that asserts Tell's own imagined vision of the primitive future. Draped and supple leather cowls contrast neatly with the boxy leather and suede jackets. This soft croc also produces surprisingly flared out skirts and dresses. The Padaung tribes of Burma and their elongating neck rings gave way to rivet detailing on suede jackets. Then there was a new injection of knitwear this season with elaborate handknits incorporating different yarns and loose loops that Tell admitted he purposely made even shaggier the night before. Shoe designer Raphael Young provided the wedges with cut out slits that completed the look.

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