The prime time slot on late Saturday evening went to Raf Simons a while back. The Belgian mastermind has long been up there with the great, and his status was confirmed when he successfully took over the creative direction at Jil Sander. But tonight was all about indulging his own design visions – and what a vision it was. As we pleasantly have accepted, Simons’ collections these days are mostly about sharp tailoring.
But a lot of Raf Simons’ suits and formalwear was tweaked in his autumn winter show; some of his double-breasted suit jackets had Velcro details, others sported colour panelling and a few coats and jackets came with push buttons. Simons also sent out his suit jackets layered under bomber jackets.
The trench coat was singled out for extra attention and was either kept in the shape of a skirt or made out of three separate pieces. Also wool – tops and bottoms – had been experimented with. They appeared as slim tops, tucked into skirt-esque garments, which gave the models an unusual silhouette. All in all Raf Simons deconstructed an otherwise formal and classic design direction into a personal and forward pushing aesthetic.
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