Acne S/S 09 in Stockholm

The Swedish denim label presents its Bauhaus-influenced collection.

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Acne S/S 09

The brown parcel paper confetti that was being scattered over guests arriving for the Acne S/S 09 show at the entrance of the Acne Jeans headquarters in the old part of Stockholm, summed up the simultaneous grandeur and accessibility of the brand and the whole event which Acne hosted last night.

As part of Stockholm Fashion Week, Acne presented their spring summer 2009 collection, which was entirely inspired by Bauhaus School of Design. The theme was evident in the cardboard sculptures constructed in the reception area of the show and also inside the Acne showroom, which last night doubled up as the catwalk venue and banquet room for the guests after the show.

However, rather than interpreting the theme with a heavy-handed literal approach, Acne's creative director Jonny Johansson injected Bauhaus in the form of clean lines, narrow silhouettes and in subtle prints and colour palettes. It is the simple and effortless qualities of Bauhaus that Johansson also sees in Acne and it was very apparent that a synergy between the 1920s’ design movement and the ethos of this over-decade old denim label could be seen in the clothes.

For menswear, the emphasis was on youthful sophistication. The fit of the jackets and trousers was both relaxed and narrow. There was also a successful tension created between the casual mixed denim and sportswear pieces and the lizard and snakeskin boots and bulky leather accessories.

Womenswear got an added influence of the urban cowboys of the 1980s, which resulted in Western shirts and peaked cowboy hats. The modernity of Bauhaus was subtly incorporated into dresses that relied on geometric cuts and exposed seams, sheer panels and again, a relaxed fit that never veered into becoming baggy.

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