Stefano Pilati makes several references to the YSL of old but using his own language.
Austerity is loudly knocking on the door everywhere and Stefano Pilati may have articulated that in the most extreme form at the YSL show. The show was about a "natural and honest chic, an understated elegance" and whist there were things that tick that box; the peasant blouses, open back tunics, Puritan-like capes, apron cuts and A-lines, they were also offset with uneasy erotic elements; leather cut-out shorts, bows running up the backs of tights, strapped in bed-sheet configured dresses and of course dangerously sharp shoes. A wee reference to the late Yves came in the form of a scattered strawberry embroidery that was only used lightly. Beyond the uneasy peasant girl, there were also fantastic fabric research elements like a thermo-bonded jersey boucle that looked like neoprene in white boxy jackets, circular pleat embellishments on waistcoats and a three dimensional cotton crochet, used to great effect on a black sheer top with attached cape.
Photography by Angela di Paolo