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Gender Studies According to Andrea Crews

On Saturday, day four of Paris Fashion Week, Andrea Crews' models got off the spaceship

On Saturday, day four of Paris Fashion Week, a spaceship dropped off a few of these rare specimens into the Musée du Jeu de Paume, a museum situated inside the Tuileries Gardens, for them to parade and demonstrate how they believe a Saturday night should be spent, here to model the latest Andrea Crews collection. Their followers are fretting with impatience: the entrance is filled to the brim with dedicated fans sporting undercuts, platform creepers and horse helmets. Techno beats are pouring out of the opening doors, and the crowd is unsure whether to start dancing or keep squeezing towards the front.

Inside, a small stage is raised for each model to have her moment of glory and improvise a mini performance– better than a mere catwalk, this is to soon turn into a robot dance contest. In the back, two female DJs with painted faces and lace dresses sans knickers are dancing, pouting, prancing behind the decks.

The show starts. One model after the next runs to the platform, stands, break dances, flashes her chest, and crowd surfs to the public’s delight. The garments are organized into several themes, like micro lines within the collection, each with a different theme or guiding reference – complete with its own, equally tailored soundtrack. These range from shimmery, neon tracksuits (the lovechild of Barbie and Kanye West), to thick, dyed linen transformed into jumpsuits (Gandhi throws a blockparty), to kitschy beach prints turned into oversized suits (Ann Demeulemeester goes to Hawaii).
The influences go from early Whitney Houston to Erykah Badu, to Barbarella and the typical Andrea Crews touch is maintained through the excessive accessories: necklaces made out of recycled photographs, hats, wigs, spectacles of all kind, and too much bling, naturellement.

As always, the collection has a leading, nu-rave influence (a movement which, one should note, never really picked up in France). Like the previous collections, there is a DIY, club kid feel to the garments as to the atmosphere (indeed, the fashion show rapidly turned into a bespoke rave); it is a mix between Boombox’s hey days and children’s 3D comic strips.

“Andrea Crews takes part in the world of the creation as a space of resistance and freedom” is part of the brand’s motto. People certainly came out with a new resistance to grey, and the freedom to mismatch and moonwalk.

Andrea Crews, 10 Rue Frochot, 75009 Paris, France