Haider Ackermann, like his serene models that emerged from a billow grey smoke is also rising from the smoke, aided by the likes of Tilda Swinton who perfectly embodies Ackerman's knack with a long and graceful silhouette that is rigourously controlled. For spring summer, Ackermann took his woman on another journey, through the A Passage to India and on the way she picked up sumptuous colours like bright mustard, inky blue and a faded lilac. Pockets were used as volume creating devices in jackets, waistcoats and on combat-trousers. The final mesmerising act came as a trio of models came out in varying degress of stark black undress, which Ackermann had no particular explanation other than its aesthetic effect. Pleasing aesthetics in Ackermann's case need no further explanation but we probed him nonetheless.
Dazed Digital: You always talk about travelling as a theme in your collections - why is that?
Haider Ackermann: It's an escape. It's a way to get away from life in general. I always want to dream.
DD: Where there any new techniques you were trying out this season?
Haider Ackermann: There's no techniques really. We're trying to tailor with more drapery to concentrate on the waist. It's all about the fragility of the fabric and trying to control that.
DD: Like the pockets used on the jackets and the waistcoats?
Haider Ackermann: It gives a different kind of volume to the hips and it feels really fresh.
DD: And the final trio of women undressing - any symbolic meaning?
Haider Ackermann: I never have a meaning behind anything. It's all for aesthetic value.
Photos by Clement Dauvent
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