Alber Elbaz delights an audience who are once again astounded by his sensibility to what a woman wants to wear.
Lanvin is always an exciting prospect on the schedule, as joviality is celebrated (evident by the cocktails and coconut cakes served to guests beforehand) and women can gasp over dresses she wants to wear. What women want and what they're feeling has always been Alber Elbaz's mantra and by sticking to it, he continues to delight and women continue to applaud. It started with a ruffle that is actually an exaggerated wave of fabric creating those familiar one-shouldered dresses. It then moved onto tailoring where Elbaz was exploring the idea of incorporating tuxedos into dresses so a tailored jacket acts as a peplum over a skirt. Then the sequins were let loose and a louche jumpsuit came bedazzled with strands of beaded embroidery that moved dramatically. The finale was always going to be a squeal-fest; a series of chevron-directed beading in the brightest of colours that were heavily accessorised. Elbaz self-effacingly said he always thinks he's never got it right, and that he starts nit-picking at the collection after the show but the general consensus was there were no nits to pick at and that once again, Elbaz scores another winner.
Dazed Digital: What was the initial starting point for the collection?
Alber Elbaz: I went to Buenos Aires and it was about having fun and relaxing a little. I saw these women who were all made-up and really took the effort to dress-up. Then I saw their daughters who were in jeans and a t-shirt. I was thinking 'When did we lose it? When did we stop making the effort to look good?'.
DD: What fabrications and techniques did you play with this time round?
Alber Elbaz: We work in a sort of laboratory and it takes a lot to make prototypes. From sketch to the end product, it always turns out completely different. We worked with a synthetic polyester fabric that was very difficult to sew and hard to fit too.
DD: How do you always keep in step with what women want in their clothes?
Alber Elbaz: I don't intellectuallise anything. I work with women, I'm surrounded by women and I dress women. I see that women are moving forward. There are women that are stronger, sharper and sexier and I have to go with this. My job is not to dictate, but to go with what women want.