Dazed fashion editor and Pugh's collaborator Katie Shillingford tells us more about the collection and the concept of the hair and make-up.
Here are some pics from Gareth Pugh S/S10 -whilst we we putting it all together and tearing our hair out!
We wanted the hair and make-up to fit in with the palette of the collection but even though the skin was a palish grey we still wanted the girls and boys to look beautiful and fresh. The red under the eyes had been more prominent in our first hair and make-up tests but we all thought, as the collection is soft and sophisticated- the red should be softened too- almost as if the models have been crying. With the hair we wanted to keep it quite soft again- but adding the grey colour
so their own hair melted into the 2 tone grey palette. The dark grey hoods framing the face create hard lines so we wanted to soften this with grey fringes. Overall we wanted the hair and make-up to stand out but it was important for us to move away from the theatrical. The nails for the show were a mixture of new products- 'Minx', the shiny pewter nails that were worn with the rings; and 'ManGlaze' - the matt dark grey worn with everything else. ManGlaze made a special colour for the show which was called 'Hot Mess'.
The collection comprised of 2 elements which we tried to merge together- the more structured tailoring and the soft chiffon/slashed chiffon and loose knitwear. As always there were some beautiful classic Gareth shapes like the ribbon applique mini dresses and chiffon striped dress that resembled a clear pvc and black leather dress from A/W07. The mixing of girls and boys was another element borrowed from the previous London shows when Gareth first started. The
clothes are pretty much unisex so it was good to have the boys too- although this made things quite hectic when we were prepping the show!
The girls shoes were based on the previous S/S season but were made a lot higher and we added the lacing detail at the front- laced with ribbon to match the ribbon group within the collection. We wanted the boys shoes to work with the girls but still really loved the hardness of the men's boots from A/W 09 so we added a wedge and gave them the
same lacing as the girls. I don't think the boys liked us very much when we gave them wedges to wear and there was a fair amount of practicing!
The hats were born from a head-piece made for the video made for New York Fashion Week. It's a mixture of warrior, queen, showgirl and punk with dyed grey feathers fanning out from a armour like base- which we also used by itself.
Thank god it's all over and went pretty smoothly!