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Theatre de la Mode S/S 10

TDLM's new film by Kathryn Ferguson reflects the menswear unisex label's radically different style approach.

Theatre de la Mode's direction has changed somewhat over the last two seasons and it's down to the fact that Christopher Kelly's design partner is no longer with the label. From a burst of whimsy with their first season of puppet presentations, this season, Kelly got physical and collaborated with filmmaker Kathryn Ferguson and Lung for a video that embraces movement, dance and geometry.

Dazed Digital: What were you inspired by for this season?
Christopher Kelly: My initial inspiration for the range came from the African finch. A hand painted pet shop sign of African finches and other animals led me to research the finch. I love that they come in amazing erratic tones. The idea of being trapped in an Avery with a million African finches in flight inspired the hand painted silk and jersey.
The silhouette was inspired by 1930's gentleman's leisurewear. I have continued to develop an oversized silhouette but refreshed it with cylindrical lines and heavy drape. Trousers are cut with a bowed leg and shorts adopt heavy pleating to create a culotte style mens - unisex short.

DD: The film is really different from the other films you have done - was there a reason for this?
Christopher Kelly: This seasons range was the first I have designed completely independently since my design partner left the label last season. Embracing designing independently I wanted to approach this seasons film with a fresh approach.
I have wanted to create a dance fashion film for a really long time so this seemed the perfect opportunity. Kathryn (Ferguson) and I met at our mutual friend's gig (Tunng) when they recently played with Tinariwen. Kathryn and I were completely on the same tip of what we wanted to do for our next project so the collaboration was set.
DD: How do you think TDLM's identity has changed from the initial puppet presentation?
Christopher Kelly: TdlM's identity has come full circle almost. The doll installation/range was exactly where we wanted to be design wise and I feel the SS10 range has returned to the same aesthetic of utilitarian ready to wear. Now re-branded as mens-unisex, the range adopts a mutual stance on mens and womens wear. 

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