Fashion East Womenswear S/S10

Two fresh additions added to Holly Fulton's collection that's already got the buzz going.

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Whilst designers are under the tutelage of Fashion East, they are still establishing their signature and doing 'more of the same' is no bad thing here. This is especially the case when it comes to Holly Fulton, whose use of perspex, graphic art deco skyscraper prints and pop art colours combined to make a stunning second Fashion East appearance. Heikki Salonen unfortunately escaped the vaults before we could speak to him but he showwed a brooding collection of Scandi/East London nonchalence where everything had an effortless edge to it. The final newcomer Michael van der Ham showed a continuation from his MA collection, lightening things up so that the three-dresses-in-one idea didn't feel as heavy.
We spoke to Holly and Michael about their Fashion East experience and their collections.

Dazed Digital: Could you sum up your collection in your own words?
Holly Fulton: It was derived from an image that I saw by Eduardo Palozzi called Wichtenstein in New York and when I saw it, it just looked like the inside of my help because I wanted to go on holiday to New York. This image has crazy skyscrapers, pop art colours and machinery - everything I love in influences. I have recurring things I look at - art deco, wiener werkstatte, jewellery by Jakob Bengel - so those are constant influences. Then I was using Jeanne Moreau in the film Bride Wore Black as a sort of another angle to take because of the black and white aspect, she only wears black and white in the whole film. So I thought maybe there's nothing stronger than that and that's where the black and white print came from.

DD: How have you developed your use of perspex this season?
Holly Fulton: I've always used laser cutting in perspex. I love how artificial it is and just using it with the metals, stingray and crystals and working it into more of a collage was what I was going for.

DD: What does Fashion East mean to you?
Holly Fulton: I wouldn't have been able to show by myself and when I applied I didn't think I'd get it. It's been quite a quick thing to happen and Lulu and the team at Fashioon East has been so helpful and they're just amazing.

Dazed Digital: Could you sum up your collection in your own words?
Michael van der Ham: Lots of students at Saint Martins that have done the MA and get their first show and sponsorship, they tend to do the same show again. So I thought I wanted to do the same concept but it should look completely different. I wanted to strip away from the full-on pieces in my MA collection and make it more wearable. I was really excited about doing separates. I changed the colour palette and the fabrics but still keeping that mismatching thing. The MA collection is really heavy with loads of volume and this time I wanted something more slinky that's more summery.

DD: How do you put the fabrics and colours together in your dresses?
Michael van der Ham: It's like a puzzle. Nothing can match. You can never use two brocades or two crepes together and it should always be a synthetic fabric against a silk. It's really fun but it's a bit sad because that's all I do!

DD: What does Fashion East mean to you?
Michael van der Ham: I was so excited when Lulu called me as I had already found out through a friend that she was going to call. Sarah Mower and Lulu Kennedy as a team backing me up is just so lovely. I really appreciate it.

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