Pumping Christopher Kane for a reference may have been a difficult one this season. Kane cited Jonestown mass suicides in Guyana but as with previous collections, there's a certain motif, fabric or technique that Kane hones in on and expands on it to make his collections comprehensive, with depth and consideration for the overall look. Gingham, a fabric with somewhat questionable conontations was the central theme but of course Kane applying the right fabrics, fits and gusto made it suddenly altogether covetable. Slits applied twice on the thighs, at the arms, cut-outs at the back and panels of pleating had some part to play in this gingham success. Then when there was an embroidery motif that looked like dainty florals (actually abstracted paint splashes), another element is introduced to break up the check. Both Christopher and sister Tammy gave a few clues as to what we can expect from the impending Versus collection for Versace (mentor Donatella was of course present) but whilst his design accolades may be growing under his belt, refinement in his own work is ever-present.
Dazed Digital: What was the real starting point behind this collection?
Christopher Kane: I just really wanted it to be completely different from last season and try to change. Gingham has been perceived as being cheesy and if you give it shape, you can make it really great and I just really wanted to exploit it really.
DD: Talk us through the embroidery. I got a sort of chinoserie feeling from it.
Christopher Kane: Actually, it was just through an experiment where I splattered some paint on the fabric and when the embroidery came back that's how it turned out
DD: Do you feel like you have really honed into your aesthetic over the last few seasons?
Christopher Kane: Definitely! We want to stay really focused but with a sense of wrongness underneath. We want to always make something beautiful but with unexpected elements.
DD: How do you feel about the direction of where Christopher Kane as a brand is going?
Tammy Kane: I'm with him on it. We're really about the one textile, the one fabric and pushing that. So this season it was gingham and it's amazing what you can do with a poor fabric and we really pushed it technically.
DD: I know you were the initial inspiration for Kane's love of Versace. Can you give us any hints for the new Versus collection that Christopher has designed?
Tammy Kane: The dresses are HOT! Basically all of my teenage dreams come true!