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Marios Schwab Womenswear S/S10

The three-part silhouette is born under Schwab's deft hands.

PhotographyKasia BobulaTextSusie Lau

From last season's high octane, attention grabbing 3-D collection full of hard structure, things soften up for spring/summer considerably but not in the way you would think. Yes, rose petals have been faded, there are glimmers of crystals and colours are dusky and soft too. But it's the shape that Schwab has proposed that is the real story. Cutting the body into three parts so that there's top, pelmet/skirt and a longer skirt underneath, we may be starting to see the back of short-as-you-like dresses and ultra body-con fits. Schwab's flipbook invitation already had people working out different components to go together but of course with ensemble, the combinations of textures and colour are very much considered. We find out how this trio ensemble came about from the man himself.

Dazed Digital: How did you come up with the tree-part silhouette
Marios Schwab: I was thinking of words I really like at the moment and words that are present and think of. I put them down and somehow thought some were too much, some were soft, some were expressing structure or intellect. So I wanted to mix them all together but the only way to do that was to come up with an idea to make them all fit.
I came across a Victorian book that I came across which was what the invite was based on. I thought that it was very interesting - the way you can transform a dress that are made up of separate parts but still has an element of transformation in the body.

DD: How do you think you think you have made romanticism contemporary?
Marios Schwab: I think nothing is obvious. You want to have different experiences in life, contradiction and mixture and that's what the collection is about. I wouldn't want to be surrounded by romanticism as it would bore me to death. Then again, it's something that feels fresh and it's a faded thing that I'd like to bring back and I think lots of women will like it.

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