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Julian Louie Womenswear S/S10

Subdued sunset shades were given depth with textural gradiation.

In a tight gradiation of colour from peachy coral to nude to taupe to pink to white, Julian Louie created a series of dresses and more commercially-led separates in these pale shades that upon closer inspection also gradiates in terms of fabric textures. It was altogether a much softer collection in relation to the harder-edged armour of last season. Basically perfect for looking wistfully at a sunset.

Dazed Digital: What was the starting point for the collection?
Julian Louie: The starting point was seeing a sunset from an airplane and so it started with the colour and the idea of gradiation of colours. From a limited run of colours, it was about finding all the different shades. From the idea of gradiation in colours, I explored different textures and experiments with different fabrics like ultrasuede that has a freedom to it.  

DD: Do you think there's a vocabulary that has been established for Julian Louie?
Julian Louie: The past three seasons, the vocabular has been defined and that's definitely getting there. I think it's all about tension. I think about how do you combine elements that wouldn't normally go together so that it makes something cohesive.

DD: How do you feel about the opportunities that are available for a young designer in New York?
Julian Louie: New York is really supportive to young talent but it's also an incredibly packed calendar and with any timeslot you're competing with four other shows and it's hard to cast the show, for people to attend and that's what makes it difficult. But it's a wonderful city and it's a pleasure to work here.