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Thom Browne Womenswear S/S10

Menswear designer Thom Browne looks to the sea for a daring diver-inspired mens collection

PhotographyMark ReayTextKin Woo

Perhaps still inspired by his recent Moncler Gamme Bleu presentation in Milan which took place at a swimming pool, that great menswear provocateur, Thom Browne dove further into the deep blue for his S/S 2010 showing. Taking place at Browne’s Hudson store, it was an unexpectedly scaled back presentation for Browne after recent documented financial troubles but it allowed for a new focus on the clothes. With The Beatles’ ‘Yellow Submarine’ cheerfully blaring in the background, the aquatic theme was played out with helmets with goggles (resembling deep-sea divers) nylon trains and in the finale, a model in a suit of shimmering black disc sequins who looked like the Creature from The Black Lagoon. But among the trademark oddities, there were more great options for men than before. His typically unforgiving high-waisted flood pants were cut more generously this time and the yellow patent trenchcoats and suits in seersucker and a rather fetching swordfish motif. For a final touch of whimsy, when the models left the show, they all piled up into a yellow school bus, much to the amusement of the onlookers crowded on the street outside.

Dazed Digital: What was the thinking behind having it at the store instead of your usual theatrical presentations?
Thom Browne: So that we could really show the clothes. And let it really speak for itself.

DD: Please explain how you came by the nautical theme.
Thom Browne: I was thinking of mermaids and old films... Just having fun really.

DD: The model at the end in the black suit with pailettes reminded me of the Creature From the Black Lagoon!
Thom Browne: (laughs) He was meant to be a merman!

DD: Do you like being thought of as a provocateur in men’s fashion?
Thom Browne: Yeah I like to make people think and also to have a good time.

DD: And if there was an emotion running through the collection, what would that be?
Thom Browne: There’s some humour but there’s an evolution of shapes and how I design things and how I evolve and move forward.