A fresh romantic mood swept in at Robert Geller in place of his usual brooding aesthetic.
Robert Geller may be based in America but the darkly romantic streak that runs through his work betrays his European roots. From turn of the century Vienna to Eastern European gypsies, Geller continues to dream up new archetypes for his masculine ideal. For S/S 2010, the kernel of inspiration was German men after war as he wanted to evoke hope and optimism as an antidote for hard times. To a soundtrack by Neu! and against a backdrop of forestry and fruit, he sent out a looser, crumpled and layered silhouette (reminiscent of the work of that other great Romanticist, Lucas Ossendrijver of Lanvin) and he lightened up his traditionally sombre colour palette with electrifying aqua blues and deep purples. The elegant convict/dandy hybrid he has by now perfected, this time came accessorized with bowties made of tattered tulle echoing beautiful, poetic decay. Which is perhaps the very essence of a Robert Geller show.
Dazed Digital: What was the starting point for Spring/Summer?
Robert Geller: It was a fantasy about German men after the war. It was about that period of rehabilitation - that period in the Fifties where they were just coming out of the recession and started living again.
DD: The colour palette was interesting. What was the thinking behind that?
Robert Geller: My sense of colour is always important to the collection and it’s usually a bit darker. This time I really wanted to appreciate colour for Spring. When the sun started shining and it was getting beautiful outside and people cheered up, I wanted to bring that to the collection.
DD: The accessories like the bowties that looked like they were decomposing was a beautiful touch
Robert Geller: I wanted to add a touch of romance to the collection. The man I want to dress understands romance in clothes.
DD: Since I last saw you, you’ve won the GQ Best New Menswear Designer Award. How have your fortunes changed since then?
Robert Geller: It’s good. People take you more seriously, I guess that’s the biggest difference. I know that’s a weird thing to say. People do more interesting stories and spend more time with us.
DD:And if you could isolate one emotion that was running through the collection, what would that be?
Robert Geller: A hazy sunlight. That’s how I saw this collection.