Pin It
Photography by Michael Smits

Lenny's Dark Landscapes

Lenny Pier Ramos introduces his menswear line for S/S '10, 'Consume Consumed' based on dark Kuwait images

With a French-Canadian mother and a Spanish father, Lenny Pier Ramos studied Fine Arts and Film at the Concordia Univercity in Montreal. Launching his accessory label Powerhaus in collaboration with stylist Melissa Matos, they blurred the lines between art and fashion, they also curated exhibitions and produced photo shoots, when in 2007 Ramos moved to Antwerp where he studied Fashion Design at the Royal Academy.

This year, he showed his first Menswear collection 'ConsumeConsumed' inspired by dark apocalyptic Kuwait landscapes as well as the work of artist Chillida Leku. Adhering to technical rigour and precision of cut, his clothes often have an architectural feel, 'evoking purity while keeping a very distinct sensibility to human emotions'. Citing inspirations from artists like Terence Koh, designers Raf Simons, and filmmakers Antonioni and Tarkovski, his darkly poetic, atmospherephic menswear line mixes textured leathers with organza, wools and jerseys.

Dazed Digital: Tell us about your collection? What were the inspirations for it?
Lenny Pier Ramos: I was looking at the use of light in Spanish artist Eduardo Chillida’s work and also in Rothko’s paintings and was fascinated by the way they create darkness, and by the profound feeling of purity that emanates from it. Then I felt  the same thing looking at Janine Gordon’s moshpits photographs, this really simple, raw, close to spiritual quality. I’m fascinated by skin heads, metal heads, ravers and other subcultures for the kind of rawness that their lifestyle exudes.  So this was the emotion I articulated the collection around. That and the beautiful Kuwaiti oil fires images from Werner Herzog’s film Lessons Of Darkness. I used the Sisters of Mercy for the soundtrack.
I used a lot of textured leathers where different shades fluidly mix into each other creating smoked or dusted surfaces. I played with the idea of bondage becoming part of the architecture of the garment.  I used organza, a very feminine fabric, for its translucent quality because I think it adds something sensual.

DD: What is the 'Consume Consumed' concept?
Lenny Pier Ramos: It’s not so much a concept but a state of mind. It’s in reference to the idea of consuming your own life, trying to fill yourself with a certain emotion or experience and then feeling consumed by life. It’s also a reference to the inextinguishable fires in Herzog’s film, and to Plastikman’s album 'Consumed'.

DD: How do you think you incorporate art into fashion?
Lenny Pier Ramos: I don’t anymore. I choose fashion. But in Montreal I hadn’t made that decision yet, I was an art student and it was all kind of mixed together. The events and photo shoots we organized were always presented more in a art context. If we made a garment it was never with the intention to sell it or wear it but purposely for a photograph, a video or a performance.

DD: Who do you have in mind when designing?
Lenny Pier Ramos: Janine Gordon’s boys or gang of skin head kids.

DD: If you weren't in fashion design or art, what would you be doing?
Lenny Pier Ramos: I'd want to be Michael Douglas in Wall Street or Glen Close in Damages.

A selection of unique pieces will soon be available at RA Antwerp, a concept store opening in October, or by special order.
Subscribe to the Dazed newsletterGet the day on Dazed straight to your inbox