Lucas Ossendrijver once again creates another collection of clothes for the boy-man transition figure.
Judging by the post-show interest in talking to, saying hi to or just looking at Alber Elbaz and his menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, the Lanvin spring summer presentation was a no-questions-asked success. As per usual there was an eagerness among the crowds to mingle with the models and Lanvin staffers, but this was quite something. But it just goes to show that the label is considered one of Paris’ big guns. And it’s not only fashion editors who love it; other designers also appreciate the Ossendrijver’s work – Thom Browne was at the show, looking mighty impressed.
The summer was, initially at least, quite dark. Lots of black and grey suits entered, making the otherwise fairly boyish Lanvin man look hard and determined. It was an unusual sight, but the smart and buttoned-up feel soon gave way to what we know and love Lanvin for: loosely fitted suits in sombre colours, with a casual tie hanging nonchalantly. The cooler-than-thou theme continued with sequined tops, and a few check prints on shorts and t-shirts. For accessories Lucas had chosen a stylish headband visor and, rather more curiously, fake moustaches that were drawn on the model’s upper lips. Nice shades of green and burgundy red impressed the most, and many people are surely already saving up to get their very own Lanvin suit for next summer. The last minutes of the show belonged to Salt’n’Pepa’s Push It Real Good, and no doubt Lanvin did just that. When the dust had settled Dazed chatted quickly with Lucas Ossendrijver…
Dazed Digital: Some looks were a bit harder than what we’re used to!
Lucas Ossendrijver: Yes, for a lot of seasons we have been exploring softness, and I think the softness is still in the clothes, but the image is more edgy.
DD: Where did you find the inspiration?
Lucas Ossendrijver: We left the fashion laboratory we work in and went down onto the street for that!
DD: How would you describe it in a few words?
Lucas Ossendrijver: I’d say it’s about individualism and anti-uniform
DD: What piece from the collection is your favourite?
Lucas Ossendrijver: I don’t have just one favourite – they all make sense together!
Backstage photography by Giovanni di Nunzio.