With a tribute to Pierre Bergé, Anthony Vaccarello’s collection paid homage to the recently passed co-founder of the Parisian house and his relationship with Yves Saint Laurent
If you’re in Paris for fashion week, you probably won’t have time to soak up the sights around the City of Lights – something that Saint Laurent might have taken into consideration for its SS18 show when it decided on a pretty stunning location. Here’s what went down.
THE SHOW TOOK PLACE BENEATH THE EIFFEL TOWER
Anthony Vaccarello loves taking a risk on the weather. While last season’s Saint Laurent show ended up under some untimely rain, the sky was clear tonight – and it was a good job, too. The runway was built down the hill from the Fontaine du Trocadéro, so models would be walking out from the direction of the Eiffel Tower, which lit up the cloudy sky with thousands of flashing bulbs just before the show began. Hundreds of members of the public took advantage of the open location, sitting on a wall directly opposite the audience to watch – albeit through some atmospheric smoke.
A TRIBUTE TO PIERRE BERGÉ
On each seat was a card with a quote, attributed to the Yves Saint Laurent co-founder who passed away this month age 86. Roughly translated, it said: “Maybe it’s this crazy love. The love of two crazy people.” L’amour Fou – or Crazy Love – was the name of a 2010 documentary on Bergé and Saint Laurent, and how their love for each other was the foundation of all they built.
LESS SEXY, MORE ROMANTIC
If last season was dark and hard-edged, this collection started with more of a feminine and romantic feeling – like the procession of white looks, which featured transparent lace and ruffled fabric, and ended in Vaccarello’s version of a bride. Elsewhere, things felt bohemian: there were slouchy boots, sparkly peasant blouses, sequins, tapestry, and lace-up safari details – just on miniskirts rather than the famous jackets.
THERE WAS MENSWEAR
While Vaccarello started out with just one menswear look in his debut a year ago, here was a 15-outfit collection – featuring Lennon Gallagher in a leather jacket and sparkly brogues, and Paul Hameline in a white blazer. Skinny black jeans and the occasional leather trouser were worn on the legs – because if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
THERE WERE MORE MAJOR SHOES
Pre-show, more than a few guests were in those blindingly sparkly boots from last season. This time around they came to over the knee and covered in tassels, or calf length and made out of suede. The other footwear moment? Shoes accessorised with giant feathers. No YSL initial heels, sadly.
IT ENDED WITH A LOOK INTO THE ARCHIVES
With the music swelling and the Eiffel Tower glittering, the show ended with a procession of couture-esque looks that felt like a tribute to the house’s heritage (and, we assume, to Bergé). There were puffball skirts, dropped waistlines, spiky, long black feathers, fluffy ostrich and sheer lace – all things Saint Laurent himself sent down the runway in his couture collections, from the 1960s until his retirement in 2001.