As Copenhagen Fashion Fair kicks off, we scour the schedule to bring you three names to keep an eye on
Coinciding with the city’s fashion week, the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) kicked off last night. Spread over four days, the event first launched in 1993 and plays host to a mixture of well-established and up-and-coming brands which have, in the past, featured the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Astrid Andersen and Kenzo.
Overseen by CIFF’s design and creative director Kristian W. Andersen and curated by John Skelton, seasoned buyer and founder of the concept store LN-CC, the immersive fair will be organised into a market-style layout within a 2000 square metre industrial space, with its selection of names purposefully including both emerging talent and designers who are ethically conscious when it comes to production. From newcomer and CSM alumni Nicholas Daley, who channels Afro-Caribbean subcultures of the 70s, to STORY mfg who exclusively use natural processes, here are three labels to put on your radar for this year.
When it comes to producing their clothing, the team at STORY mfg prefer a “slow made” approach. Using only natural processes, they work with artisans all over the world, spending extensive periods of time creating and treating their fabrics. Whether dyeing their garments with flowers or whisky, STORY mfg want to create pieces that: “not only do no harm, but can in some way benefit the earth, and all the humans they touch”. Entitled “Tulpa Trek”, their AW16 collection is inspired by wintry British weather and features workwear with a rain pattern made from natural indigo paint.
From hacker culture to McDonalds, Anders Haal derives inspiration from the most unlikely sources. The Swedish-born creative worked as first designer at Ann-Sofie Back Atelje before starting his own clothing and eyewear label, Haal. Predominantly aimed at women, his collections serve as a mismatch of styles – for SS16, he offered up surf-inspired fringed T-shirts and dresses printed with motifs from the 1983 film Scarface. Designing with the likes of actress Jodie Foster in mind, his clothes have been donned by artists such as Robyn and FKA Twigs.
“Just who is this black guy with dreadlocks amongst all these white punks?” Nicholas Daley first thought when he happened across a picture of musical icon, Don Letts. At the heart of both the punk and reggae scenes during 70s Britain, the DJ-meets-film director served as the designer’s inspiration for his AW15 collection – and has remained a key influence ever since. For AW16, Daley’s returned to the same decade for further exploration of such experimental subcultures. The CSM grad’s latest collection is rife with loose silhouettes and era-defining staples such as the waistcoat and string vest.