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Loewe AW15 Mens Black Jackets Red Lining Oversize Bag
Loewe AW15 menswear

Loewe AW15

J.W. Anderson riffs off Todd Oldham prints and Loewe’s 80s archive

Initial reaction:

If Jonathan Anderson’s first menswear collection for Loewe was about core pieces that anchored a wardrobe, then the second was an expansion and an affirmation of that. In the showroom setting at Loewe’s new Paris HQ, where garments were hung on gold frames and accessories were placed on tables like monumental objects, nothing felt trivial. Every piece was heroic: you traversed from luxurious shearling to mohair, blankets to ribbed knits, to hand painted motocross leather jackets. “I want people to come here and like something – if you like one thing that’s great,” said Anderson. “Nothing has to make sense together. I want people to just hone in on specific pieces. You have to let people have the freedom to do what they want.” This is why he doesn’t see this men’s collection for Loewe as a show, but rather a place where people can come and see, feel and touch.  

Into the archives:

There was more of a discernible whiff of the archives in this collection, as Anderson embraced the house's past – particularly pieces from the 80s. But he wasn’t beholden to it either. He also riffed off of other things, such as an old Todd Oldham print. Anderson is more than at ease with repurposing and recontextualising the past. “I’m obsessed with this idea of doing something and letting it go,” he explained. “You don’t own it anymore. It doesn’t matter anyway, as fashion eats into itself. When you inherit an archive, you start to realise that.”  

Communicating to the streets: 

It was hard not to have the brand’s new campaign imagery subliminally in your head, before you’d even seen any physical clothes. They are currently on practically every Paris news kiosk as Meisel’s selfie pic, or an alluring still life shot – set about enticing an entirely new customer through the door and into a Loewe store. It’s no surprise that Anderson has also just picked up a Wallpaper award for “Best Rebrand”. The packaging surrounding the clothes and the bags has changed our entire perception of Loewe. “The branding is the biggest challenge and you have to get people to believe.” We believe alright.