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Backstage at Paul Smith SS15
Mona Matsuoka (IMG) Backstage at Paul Smith SS15Photography Philip Trengove

Paul Smith SS15

Models take a languid stroll down the catwalk, hands in pockets, while backstage Sir Paul muses on simplicity, texture and one unexpected influence – jazz music

Initial reaction:

Sporty, faintly safari-esque tailoring set to a jungle-vibe soundtrack. The focused collection breathed new life into the designer’s signature stripes as he ran them down and across pleats and placed them on simple slip dresses as tribal-like bands, while his menswear-fuelled tailoring was given a new athletic framework.

Raw movement:

Backstage, Sir Paul talked about simplicity set off by texture and the natural approach he’d taken to fabrics this season with twill cottons, raw surfaces, and green-tinted wooden-heeled sandals. “The fabrics have got a structure about them, which gave them this bounce and life,” he said. "Very fluid, light, lots of movement.”

How they wore it:

There was a languid effortlessness about everything, underscored by the relaxed way the models had their hands in their pockets. The designer said he’d listened to a lot of old jazz while he’d been working on the collection – Herbie Hancock, John Coltrane, Dave Brubeck – which came through in the collection’s mellow ease, set off by – excuse the pun – jazzy accent fringing with a faint twenties vibe. “[Jazz] is something I think is quite interesting again,” the designer mused. “I’ve got a grandson who’s fourteen and he’s listening to jazz. I think that’s really interesting – a young man like that.” Sir Paul loves a flash of unexpected colour on a lining or under a collar – this season it came courtesy of sunglasses framed with pink and purple.