Getting off the Fashion East train was never going to be easy. After playing the 'new designer' card you enter the muddy waters of somewhere between being new and established. Louise Gray wisely decided to present her most complete and refined collection in the intimate setting of Soho House this season, with the help of wooden and wire mannequins by Tony Hornecker. It's both a step back to Gray's familiar embroidery details (chainmail, exposed stitches, mirror panels) and a step forward towards doing more and more separates with the addition of new textures like wooly sheepskin, mohair and velvet devore, a key fabric of the season. Gray's intention for the collection is for it to be layered and complex and yet the shapes retain an irresistable simplicity that makes Gray the dark horse of the season.