From runway selfies and Jeremy Scott’s Moschino madness, to editors suddenly struck with kleptomania at Chanel, AW14 spawned a host of sensational moments back in February. September is here already, but what is there to expect from the season ahead? If the recent news is anything to go by – a Miley Cyrus cameo, a Meadham Kirchhoff open casting call, a Spike Jonze play – SS15 is going to be just as exciting (if not more so) than the last round of shows. Here are ten things to keep an eye on in the weeks ahead.
CHANEL'S NEXT SPECTACLE
For SS14, Chanel took its audience to an art gallery, where models made their way past oversized sculptural interlocking Cs and the distinctive No.5 bottle, jarringly placed alongside industrial electricity pylons and a brightly coloured nuclear power plant. For AW14, Karl Lagerfeld created consumerist chaos with his staggering Chanel Supermarché, which saw front-row attendees stuffing Chanel branded ketchup bottles into their 2.55s. Karl meanwhile, sat back and enjoyed the spectacle. Whilst audiences will have to wait to discover what’s up his sleeve for SS15, perhaps the AW14 campaign, which featured Dazed cover girl Binx Walton in a boxing ring, might suggest his tastes have gone somewhat athletic.
SCOTT MEETS CYRUS
With his 'Fauxchino' logomania and fast food overhaul over at Moschino, you might be forgiven for forgetting about the label that launched Jeremy Scott’s career – his own. The Missouri native is putting it firmly on the map for SS15 with some thanks to a collaboration with Miley Cyrus. According to Scott, the pair have been “brewing up” something “very exciting” which will feature a "group of cool kids, rather than models”. Scott is fashion's king of Americana, and whilst Miley’s "Party in the USA" days might be behind her, these two pop provocateurs will surely be making a mark (and headlines) in New York.
THE BALMAIN ARMY MARCHES ON
In a world where runways remain overwhelmingly dominated by white models, Balmain’s creative director Olivier Rousteing is one of fashion’s most outspoken advocates for diversity. His AW14 campaign saw the introduction of his ‘Balmain army’ – where Jourdan Dunn, Binx Walton, Ysaunny Brito, Kayla Scott, Issa Lish and Cara Delevingne struck poses looking like the ultimate girl gang. With all this in mind, Balmain’s show will surely see the designer confront race, and racism, in the fashion industry head on this season (although considering his Kardashian connections, it would be no surprise to see Kendall Jenner walking the runway).
WHAT'S NEXT FOR GHESQUIÈRE?
With a typewritten note announcing his “immense joy” at the occasion, after fifteen years at Balenciaga AW14 saw Nicolas Ghesquière present his first collection as creative director of Louis Vuitton. For the modernist's debut, the grandiose sets of Jacobs-era Vuitton were stripped back, letting the collection speak for itself – in Ghesquière’s words, a “familiar wardrobe that appeals to the collective unconscious”. So far, his vision for Vuitton has, no surprises, been big on artistic collaboration. The house’s AW14 campaign, entitled Series 1, brought together powerhouse photographers Bruce Weber, Juergen Teller and Annie Leibovitz, after a cruise show that saw models walking on water thanks to a floor of video screens created by artist Ange Leccia. Judging by his Instagram, things may also be set to take an architectural turn – but we'll just have to wait and see.
OPENING CEREMONY TAKES TO THE STAGE
In an age where being momentarily without your iPhone can cause major separation anxiety, it’s increasingly hard to get people's attention – and to keep it. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon might have managed it though, by swapping the runway with a stage for Opening Ceremony’s upcoming SS15 show. The one act play that lucky attendees will be witnessing was created by director Spike Jonze (Her, Where the Wild Things Are) and funnyman Jonah Hill (The Wolf of Wall Street, Superbad), and will feature a cast of actors alongside the usual models. Theatres remain one of the few places where the wielding of an iPhone to get an Instagram snap remains firmly against the rules, but time will tell if the Opening Ceremony stage will remain so sacred.
NEW (YORK) KIDS ON THE BLOCK
For our State of Fashion week, we looked to New York for some of the USA’s most innovative fashion talent, with takeover days from Telfar and VFiles. Last season saw Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air show erupt into a voguing performance in homage to the city’s ballroom scene, marking it out as one of the only streetwear brands to successfully (and fearlessly) tie in hip hop and queer culture. HBA’s SS15 show will demonstrate how a €100,000 euro prize from LVMH will change their game, but they aren’t the only New Yorkers to keep an eye on – Gypsy Sport and Mike the Ruler faves Eckhaus Latta and Telfar will also be representing. This season’s new talent is provided courtesy of digital fashion sensation VFiles, who are presenting four new designers in their MADE show – ZDDZ, DTTK, Hamm and Tigran.
LONDON'S YOUNG BLOOD
Season after season, London demonstrates just how worthy its reputation for breaking new ground is. For SS15, Fashion East, the non-profit established in 2000 (with an impressive alum including Gareth Pugh and Meadham Kirchhoff) sees CSM grad and bright young thing Ed Marler join the ranks. His graduate show – for which he took to the runway in a princess dress with giant ‘MUM’ door-knocker earrings – caught our eye, so much so that we got Ed to show us the inside of his wardrobe. He’ll be making his debut alongside Louise Alsop and Helen Lawrence, who last season showed graphic square prints and stiff wavy silhouettes respectively. Also representing the best of young London talent are kitsch fanatics Ryan Lo – who had cowgirls with plastic guns at his AW14 presentation – and Ashley Williams, who graduated from the Fashion East line-up last season with a collection that featured python skin and graphic pony heads.
KENDALL'S SECOND COMING
Whatever you may think of the Kardashians, after a season that saw Kim’s half-sister walking for Givenchy, Marc Jacobs and Chanel (and sitting front row with Anna Wintour), Kendall Jenner is undeniably making her mark on the fashion industry. Contrary to popular belief, Jenner believes her famous family has hindered, rather than helped her career – “I had to work even harder to get where I wanted because people didn’t take me seriously as a model,” she said in Love’s AW14 issue, of which she featured on the cover. The 18-year-old's talent has earned her friends in high places: she's been named a member of pal Olivier Rousteing's Balmain army, and after starring in Givenchy's AW14 campaign alongside Dazed cover star Mariacarla Boscono, nominated Riccardo Tisci for the Ice Bucket Challenge. Your move, Riccardo!
After showing in Paris for the last six years, last month Gareth Pugh announced that he was relocating to New York, with the promise of delivering an immersive live performance rather than a simple fashion show. Known for his mastery of the dark and sensory – he pumped the scent of smoke into the Palais de Tokyo for SS13 and chlorine for SS14 – in the words of friend and collaborator Matthew Stone, “The immersive is hardwired into Gareth’s DNA.” Speaking to The New York Times, Pugh said, "Fashion is very stuck in its ways, and I wanted to present something that would make people think, and maybe move the needle a bit." Few details have been released, save that the show will feature dancers and will not include the entire collection. Perhaps a risky move, but considering Pugh's talent, it's one that will almost definitely pay off.
Read our show report here.
J.W. ANDERSON – LOEWE FOR THE LADIES
Last menswear season saw J.W. Anderson put out a collection that was, in his words “A little bit sleepy, a little bit erotic and little bit dirty all at the same time”. He also made his debut as creative director at Loewe in a minimalistic campaign lensed by Steven Meisel – with images also sourced from his archives – and a lookbook shot by Jamie Hawkesworth. Anderson has spoken about how his work with Loewe is about “a cultural landscape” rather than simply fashion, and with SS15 marking his first womenswear show with the Spanish brand, we’re set to see how Anderson will bring the two together.
Follow Emma Hope Allwood on Twitter here @emmahopeall