Shows of the season: Robbie Spencer's top menswear moments

From silver space boots to reimagined Japanese workwear – Dazed fashion director Robbie Spencer selects the best of London, Milan and Paris

Fashion Menswear
Maison Martin Margiela SS15, Dazed backstage
Theo Derville (Success) backstage at Maison Martin Margiela SS15 Photography Harley Weir

Now that SS15 menswear is over, Dazed fashion director Robbie Spencer looks back over the season and selects his favourite shows, looks and pieces, to create a definitive guide.

Rick Owens SS15 Mens collections, Dazed backstage
Alexander Barna (Marilyn) backstage at Rick Owens SS15 Photography Lea Colombo

RICK OWENS

A collection that thrived on a sense of duality, playing on the balance between the primitive and the futuristic. Models – clad in silver space boots and some covered entirely in body paint – were almost other-worldly, yet dressed in tapestries that recalled prehistoric cave paintings. 

Read the full report here.

Matthew Miller SS15 Mens collections, Dazed backstage
Backstage at Matthew Miller SS15 Photography Russ McClintock

MATTHEW MILLER

What happens when there is no enemy left to fight? Exploring the disparate feelings of a soldier post conflict, Miller took utilitarian ‘one size fits all’ garments – in homage to the demob suits given to demobilized troops – and adorned them with memorial floral wreaths.

Read the full report here.

Dries Van Noten SS15 Mens collections, Dazed backstage
Backstage at Dries Van Noten SS15 Photography Lea Colombo

DRIES VAN NOTEN

This season was very much an exercise in pushing the boundaries of the preconceived silhouettes of a man's body. There were scooped necks, which revealed the models’ clavicles – an erogenous zone often ignored in menswear – alongside unitards and knitted waistbands.

Read the full report here.

Junya Watanabe Man SS15 Mens collections, Dazed
Junya Watanabe Man SS15 Photography Marie-Amélie Tondu

JUNYA WATANABE MAN

A reimagining of Japanese workwear through patchwork denim, bold graphic characters and batik prints, with black, slicked back hairpieces creating a look somewhere between sumo wrestler and Manga classic Astro Boy.

Read the full report here.

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS15 Mens collections, Dazed
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS15 Photography Marie-Amélie Tondu

COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS

The show played with the animalistic, from the tusks that extended, jester-like, from the toes of winklepickers, to the leopard print fabric spliced into suiting. The print appeared in militaristic jackets with gold-buttoned cuffs, and netting – from thin khaki rope to more stylised patterned fabric – covered garments.

Read the full report here.

Neil Barrett SS15 Mens collections, Dazed backstage
Backstage at Neil Barrett SS15 Photography Virginia Arcaro

NEIL BARRETT

A pillar of clean, minimalist strength. While everything was structured and precise, the silhouettes felt light and graceful – not unlike the Roman classicism that had set off the collection.  

Read the full report here.

Prada SS15 Mens collections, Dazed backstage
Backstage at Prada SS15 Photography Lea Colombo

PRADA

Utah boy goes to the big city, in embroidered top-stitched everything, brown leather-detailed denim and cashmere versions of charity shop knits.

Read the full report here.

Craig Green SS15 Mens collections, Dazed backstage
Backstage at Craig Green SS15 Photography Philip Trengove

CRAIG GREEN

We've spent the last few seasons watching Green come into his own, but this (his first solo show) was purist poetry in motion, and had the entire audience struck by its unnerving beauty. Everything was stripped away – colour palettes, fabrics and textures – to allow for drama in the movement.

Read the full report here.

Backstage at Maison Martin Margiela SS15
Backstage at Maison Martin Margiela SS15 Photography Harley Weir

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

The collection’s ethos was one of disruption and spontaneity, pieces thrown off balance through their construction. Disparate elements were brought playfully together, as trousers (which were left out of the equation entirely on two looks) became hybrids with one leg patched denim, the other fleece cropped above the knee.

Read the full report here.

J.W. Anderson SS15 Mens collection, Dazed backstage
Backstage at J.W. Anderson SS15 Photography Philip Trengove

J.W. ANDERSON

This season was about throwing things off balance – garments were cut at the bias revealing exposed shoulders (an area of a mans body too often ignored in menswear, but for Anderson this is his canvas for 'seductive' exploration).

Read the full report here.

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