Ann Demeulemeester SS15

A new Zen: a stripped back palette evolves with intricate and subtle details, as Meunier stays true to the house's purist codes

Fashion Show
Ann Demeulemeester SS15 Mens collections, Dazed
Ann Demeulemeester SS15 Photography Marie-Amélie Tondu

Initial reaction:

White on black on bone. Ann Demeulemeester’s creative director Sebastien Meunier brought a rare touch of Zen to Paris' Couvent des Cordeliers, raising romantic layers to new heights like a second and third skin – shirts under jackets, jackets under jackets.

New blood:

After Demeulemeester herself left last year, Meunier’s menswear debut for the Belgium house – just like his under-the-radar inauguration for the brand’s AW14 womenswear collection – felt like a stripping back to the Demeulemeester purist codes, where signature bare whites and bottomless blacks brought home a sense of romanticism.

Purist codes:

A simple palette opened up a wealth of intricate detailing; tiny cotton baubles lined shirt collars, a linen jacket covered in a web of bone coloured floral embroidery. Shoes were worn with ease as their backs were folded-down to the heel – like mules – and straw coloured pin-stripes were patched and panelled onto jackets in semi-sheer organza, evoking a weightlessness. However, it was in subtle sport elements that came through via coats with hoods where Meunier’s presence was most felt – is this the house’s new direction under its new blood? A futuristic utopian state of old versus new.

The soundtrack to Ann Demeulemeester SS15:

For Meunier’s AW14 womenswear debut, the designer stripped back in what felt like a cleansing ritual for the brand. See it below:

See all our latest features, interviews, and show reports from SS15, as it happens

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