Yohji Yamamoto SS15

Tripping from the traditional to the Texan tuxedo in an evolution of tapestry prints and double-denim

Fashion Show
Yohji Yamamoto SS15 Mens collections, Dazed
Yohji Yamamoto SS15 Photography Marie-Amélie Tondu

Initial reaction: 

Traditional Oriental tapestry prints evolve into warped Texan tuxedos in Americana style double-denim, as models splash through unexplained puddles of yellow paint on the runway.

How they wore it:

The deconstructionist aesthetic pioneered by the designer in the mid-80s is still evidently coursing through his veins. Jackets were sliced in half, one-part sleeve and one-part holster, and bleached-through patches were stitched on to pinstriped blazers. Paisley printed scarves were knotted at the temple and white bandanas read ‘Los Angeles’, while square-end ties were barely legible with silver scrawlings. Dog-eared black and white imagery of Japanese ‘have you seen’ posters were tacked to the back of models – a bereaved owner’s cry for help as they search for missing puppies, kittens and loved ones.

Double denim:

A gradual introduction led to full-blown denim-on-denim as swathes of the fabric staple were draped across shoulders like scarves, paired in different shades and buttoned up like Gakuran Tsume-eri (traditional Japanese school uniform jackets).

Last season, Yamamoto's ongoing collaboration with Adidas, Y3, channelled superheroes in manga print. See it below:

See all our latest features, interviews, and show reports from SS15, as it happens

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