Making the formal informal – a modern working boy, parkouring his way into the office. Models whooshed out into the massive Stazione Leopolda space in checked techmerino suiting worn over performance-wear hoodies and paired Working Girl-style with go-faster striped trainers. Back in Florence for Pitti Immagine Uomo as this season’s menswear guest designer, Zegna showed an amplified new direction for the brand, merging the work of designers Murray Scallon and Paul Surridge, who have up until now held the reins of Zegna Sport and Z Zegna, respectively. “It’s a joining of strengths,” Surridge said after the show. “The sartorial expertise of Z Zegna with the sportswear technology of Zegna Sport.”
When a group of Traceur practitioners in SS15 Z Zegna ran onto the scaffolding backdrop and parkoured their way around it at breakneck speed, superhero style, underscoring the functional meeting between tailoring and sportswear.
“It was the idea of the commuter, on the go, an urban dweller,” Paul Surridge said of the sportified, de-formalised suiting with drawstring trouser hems and streamlined, energetic pattern-on-pattern shirts and ties. “The inspiration was just from pure observation of the way people are evolving how they dress,” Murray Scallon added. “We didn’t want to enforce this guy’s direction. We wanted to respect how people are actually moving and work with that and interpret it in a different way.”
The soundtrack to Z Zegna SS15: