Outside, the streetwear army was in full-force – with Mazhar’s name taped onto everything from shirts, hats and skirts. Inside, the menacing masks and street kids were back, but this time they'd grown up... and cleaned up.
How it was worn:
The show was about stripping back the “hype” of season's past. Instead, Mazhar concentrated on perfecting the brand’s uniform; revisiting and developing signature pieces, like last season's shirting, the holster braces and the Bully cap. A palette of predominantly stark white punctuated with metallic silver and gold jaquards and sapphire, scarlett and chartreuse Lurex drills, saw the designer play with jersey and nylon. Sweatshirts featured quilting and shorts were either triple-layered or outlined in a ripstop cage – bondage street-style. Soundtrack collaborator Skepta swaggered in a black bespoke niqāb-esque masked jacket, zipped up to reveal just his eyes.
Mazhar’s street manifesto:
“A big thing I wanted to do this season was to tone it down, so it's not so mental. The last collection was about 'hype clothing'' but with this show there's a lot of things that are really new to us – like the cumberbands and the shirting – but we're also bringing garments back to kind of solidify the wardrobe of the brand. I want to make clear that this is the wardrobe. These pieces are always going to be in the collections forever. It's about making people know that's our image, that's what we do, and then next season we can develop and build on top of that because these are our foundations. This is our uniform” – Nasir Mazhar.
Working alongside radical Grime artist Skepta for Red Bull's Catwalk Studio to create the SS15 soundtrack, the mix boomed the designer’s name over the speakers in a grime-heavy mix – listen to it below.
Last season, glittered face masks and name tape defined AW14 for Mazhar in a heavy mix of Grime and streetwear. See it below:
Follow Ashleigh Kane on Twitter here @ashleighkane