The un-ironed minimalist. This season, Nicoll’s coolly modern silhouettes had a more lived-in feel: from pristine white t-shirts to silver bombers, fabrics were crumpled and deliberately creased. New face Richard Detwiler opened and closed.
The collection felt like a meeting between craftsmanship and the industrial. A bomber jacket merged a handmade shibori pattern with a glossy, techno-like coating, and crumpled shirts had flat-packed metallic bonded breast pockets, contrasting the real and the synthetic. It was an exercise in Nicoll’s ‘special normal’, underscored by his show notes that listed words like ‘innovative familiarity’ and ‘personalised basics’.
How they wore it:
With sandals or Adidas Gazelles – some of the latter customised and embellished with white bottle caps and safety pins by Judy Blame.