There's no denying, the menswear collections are having a greater impact on the industry calendar than ever before – and this season is set to be a game-changer. Expect madness as Jeremy Scott's menswear debut for Moschino descends upon London, see J.W. Anderson flip Loewe on its head and don't miss gender rule-breaker and all round fashion rebel Craig Green celebrate his first solo show. As menswear poises on the brink of a fashion revolution, we pinpoint the definitive guide to the season.
Last week, J.W. Anderson teased us with what’s in store at Loewe by commissioning design duo Michael Amzalag and Mathias Augustyniak of M/M Paris to shake up the 168-year old house’s logo. Since then, Anderson has been toying with architectural and archive snaps on the brand’s Instagram and Facebook alongside the hashtag #PastPresentFuture. Taking his own labels’ deliberately ‘genderless’ and high-functioning aesthetics as a guide, there is no doubt Anderson will transform Loewe’s house codes into a distortion of heritage and unique design ethos. Check out our interview with the designer here.
Before his debut at Loewe, see his SS15 collection below and read the report here:
For Jeremy Scott’s debut at Moschino there was only one speed: fast. Now for the designer’s first menswear show as creative director of the brand, Scott will swap his Milan showspace for London. Hints from his avid social media profiles show the creative director drawing on Moschino’s past with pop-laden, brash and bold prints like cow and cloud. It has also been revealed that Scott will coincide the show with 15 pieces of women’s pre-collection on the runway.
Scott's menswear debut for Moschino was an OTT extravaganza of appropriation. See his SS15 collection below and read the report here:
RICK OWENS' NEW TRIBE
How do you predict the unpredictable? Rick Owens’ sense of tribalism is the only certainty, but who he initiates this season is up to guesswork – and he’s not giving anything away. What we do know is that AW14’s cult-like, marching army – an ode to his lifelong rejection of authority – was a dark continuation of the same subversive ethos that’s religiously punctuated throughout everything he creates.
GIVENCHY, TISCI AND THE BFF
Riccardo Tisci turns heads. Whether that’s by sending a gang of street ballers onto a basketball-court-cum-runway led by model supernova Mariacarla Boscono, à la AW14, or with his superstar BFFs in the front row. Yeezy is always there to show his support, and we imagine this season will be no different – but will Tisci’s collection include a tribute to his newly-wedded friend? Will the runway be resurrected as a wedding aisle, or perhaps a sampling of Kanye's rumoured new album will provide the soundtrack? We can only wonder...
GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY LANDS IN PARIS
A long way from the skateparks and underground raves he calls home in Moscow, Russian wunderkind Gosha Rubchinskiy will be making his Paris debut – with a Dazed Instagram takeover to celebrate. A polymathic designer and photographer who has also tried his hand at filmmaking, in the current issue of Dazed, Rubchinskiy champions “a new Russia”, where youth use creativity and the internet to power their rebellion against repressive conventions and make a name for themselves. He’s certainly leading the charge.
Paris is burning: Rubchinskiy took the city in an intimate show of monumental impact on the French capital – a place so typically built on the reputations of longstanding fashion houses. See his SS15 collection below and read the report here:
CRAIG GREEN GOES IT ALONE
This season, the groundbreaking designer steps out on his own after three seasons with MAN. Since 2013, Green has redefined menswear with his radical designs – with a real emphasis on craft. His constant innovation and natural tendency to shake things up, with masks fashioned from splintered planks of wood to floor length hand-painted garments, we predict a further (much needed) disregard for the rulebook and a unique vision that only Green can bring.
Craig Green's spectacular solo show brought some members of the audience to tears, with Dazed editor Isabella Burley calling it a "truly rare and honest moment for fashion". See his SS15 collection below and read the report here:
MARTINE ROSE DESERVES A SHOW
Last season, we exclusively debuted Dazed favourite Martine Rose’s rave-inspired AW14 collection, which incorporated screen-printed flyers: recalling and preserving the ephemera of a youth spent in the London of the 90s. A real visionary, Rose, who will present at Fashion East this season, creates collections that are an exciting and enigmatic force in menswear – we only hope that the deserving designer gets her own show for AW15. In the meantime, check out our trippy head-to-head with Rose and flyer-archivist Steve Terry here.
Rose's presentation at Fashion East was something of a one-man show: a single model stood amongst distinctly homoerotic images, sourced with past collaborator Steve Terry. Never one to stick to the rules, Rose will drop her full collection in September. Read the report here.
VERSACE AND THE CAMP STAMP
For AW14, Donatella reacted against the growing atmosphere of political homophobia in Europe by creating a Versace menswear collection that raised a glass (OK, a whole bottle) to macho queer pop culture and iconography. It was a fabulous – and fabulously OTT – reminder of fashion’s support of LGBTQ issues, and one of the stand out shows of the season. We’re not sure what Donatella is drawing on for SS15 – the World Cup? Eurovision? Godzilla? – but whatever her inspiration, it’s sure to have Donatella's signature camp stamp.
Versace hosted a toga party courtesy of their own signature sheets. An ode to Donatella's Cuban travels, models were draped in a glamorous yet relaxed holiday mood of palm print suiting, peppered with cheeky Versace accents. See the SS15 collection below and read the report here:
Breathing new life into the London scene, this joint initiative between Topman and Fashion East has seen the brightest of London’s talent walk their designs down its runways. As MAN ushers in the next-gen likes of Liam Hodges and Nicomede Talavera, Bobby Abley, who last year brought Disney-kitsch nightmare to the masses, will wave goodbye in his final show – known for the fantastically freakish narratives that he weaves through his collections.
Pagan boy scouts and Disney skater boys made up just some of the cast at MAN's SS15 show, which saw Bobby Abley take The Little Mermaid to the street and Nicomede Talavera debut a collection of geometric gingham and plissé pinstripes. See the SS15 collections below and read the report here:
FASHION EAST'S NEW LINE-UP
Fashion East's unique format ditches the catwalk and allows guests to move around the venue and speak with the designers themselves. Spearheaded by Lulu Kennedy, this season will see its party provided by Irish rapper Rejjie Snow, who is tipped to perform live. The line-up includes womenswear duo Marques’Almeida, who swapped girls for guys last season with the launch of their adrogynous capsule collection, jewellery designer Alan Crocetti – the man behind those mouthpieces at Bobby Abley AW14 and new kid on the block Edward Crutchley.
From Marques'Almeida's broody, denim-clad teens to a Alan Crocetti's Fight Club inspired silver boxer's bandages, Fashion East exhibited the best in upcoming menswear. See the SS15 collections below and read the report here: