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Laura Mackness illustrations

Central Saint Martin’s Bright Young Things

On the eve of the anxiously awaited Central Saint Martin's students catwalk debut, the promise of brilliance is palpable...

Central Saint Martin’s MA Fashion course is reknown for its accuracy at spotting the best newcomers, and in the past, the course produced some of the most prominent names working in today’s industry including Marios Schwab, Jonathan Saunders, Phoebe Philo, Giles Deacon and Christopher Kane. Just a few days before their LFW debut, Dazed got an exclusive peek into the inspirations of the new graduates. Here are some of the hottest names we expect to come out of class 2009…

Q & A

Oden Wilson

My MA collection is inspired by geometrics that collapse around the body, diving equipment and sculptural fashion of past designers.

How old are you?
27

Where are you from?
Hertfordshire, UK

Why womenswear?
Allows me more scope, as a designer, to push my design vocabulary. More to work with!

How would you describe your style?
A mix of utility and industrial elements juxtaposed with sculptural volumes of a former era in fashion.

Who are your favorite designers and why?
Charles James, Cristobal Balenciaga and Isabel Toledo for their ability to manipulate fabric. Rick Owens because he designs for a lifestyle. And Yohji Yamamoto for his strong aesthetic.

What are your plans after graduation?
To have a holiday and find a job.

Laura Mackness

My MA collection is inspired by the work of François and Jean Robert, a book called 'Reggi-Secolo', Erwin Wurm, hair dye, Jean Paul Goude's work with Grace Jones particularly her 'Slave To The Rhythm' video, Christian Marclay, basic shapes (squares, circles and triangles), the colour of Juergen Teller's photographs. My own illustrations have also informed a lot of the design features and prints.

How old are you?
25
 
Where are you from?
Leicestershire
 
Why womenswear?
When designing I think that I am truly designing for a more extreme version of myself.
 
How would you describe your style?
My personal style right now: considered messiness. My design style: humorous, minimal with unexpected details, always complimented by accessories and often bordering on bad taste.
 
Who are your favourite designers and why?
Elsa Schiaparelli and Franco Moschino for the sense of humour employed in their designs; Yves Saint Laurent whilst Yves was still at the helm, for its elegance and sophistication; the unexpectedness of Maison Martin Margiela; Raf Simons' work at Jil Sander for its graphic simplicity.
 
Tell us any anecdotes of making your graduate collection.
Far too many (and embarrassing) to mention. And most of them have to stay within the walls of Central Saint Martins.
 
What are your plans after graduation?
Sleep.

Chary Westberg

The inspiration for my MA collection dervies from extensive research. I strive in my own work to take bits and pieces from several mediums. Art, films, an old lady on the tube dressed in all tones of red and orange, a classmate’s jumper and piece them together to form a look or a concept. In this case it was a Revlon ad from the 70s that set my collection off.

How old are you?
27

Where are you from?
Half Swedish half Thai

Why womenswear?
It happened quite naturally. I did womenswear on the BA at St Martins and I got a place on the MA as well. I could not surpass the chance to be taught by Louise Wilson, albeit the reputation.

How would you describe your style?
Colourful, easy, odd proportions, minimal with detail, grungy,

Who are your favourite designers and why?
Raf Simons and Marc Jacobs. It changes constantly but Simons and Jacobs have this connection with youth culture that I am extremely jealous of, and I think that comes across in their work which I admire and adore!

Tell us any anecdotes of making your graduate collection.
There are way too many, but it has truly been a roller coaster ride. I don’t want to put any one off doing the course as it has been the best of times and worst of times.

What are your plans after graduation?
I would like to get a job so I can start make a living. But before that all happens I need to go to rehab?!

Matteo Bigliardi

My MA collection is simple, pure and clean. It doesn’t tell a specific story and explores the beauty of the luxurious fabric. It’s definitely something that men want to wear.

How old are you?
30

Where are you from?
Italy

Why menswear?
Because I didnt want to end up making clothes for trannies! No offense, I think trannies are a great gift, but if I had done womenswear it would probably look like Roberto Cavalli - drape some zebra print chiffon and stick some crystals on!

How would you describe your style?
Do I have one?

What was the inspiration for your graduate collection?
Well… The collection I’ve ended up with is a million light years away from what i started working with few months ago! That doesnt answer your question though...

Who are your favourite designers and why?
I remember it started off with versace (pre-death!). Then I remember drawing Chanel clothes on books during my history classes! I was attracted to the black and white double C. I also like Alaia and Yves Saint Laurent and from my own country, I always thought Miuccia was the best one.

Tell us any anecdotes of making your graduate collection.
The best moments included sharing the studio space with my classmates, getting lunches and coffees together and laughing at ourselves! That’s probably what I will miss the most – my wonderful classmates!

What are your plans after graduation?
Hopefully staying in london and working here, although i would love to travel live in different places. We’ll see what happens.