How do you go about defining a rebel? Is it the desire to defy all dead-set rules or an unfaltering ambition for non-conformity? For its latest editorial project, shoemaker Hogan Rebel has defined rebels as those who shine, “reaching for infinity, striving to surpass all limits, to outdo themselves and their own art, character and wit."
Adopting the spirit of rebellion, they have immersed themselves in a search for those who personify boldness, steadfastness, irreverence and beauty. From designers to DJ’s, they have unearthed rebels who give Kerouac a run for his money – Nick Fouquet, Paola Pivi, Ivan Olita, Pierre Sarkozy, Caity Lotz and Frederik Ottensen – each of whom take us on a journey with their video, words and images. Whilst fashion and rebellion go hand in hand, Hogan Rebel have sniffed out a new breed of rebels. So, we thought it apt to pay homage to some of the most fashionable rogues from the past, including Lula Fortune from Wild at Heart, Amy Blue from The Doom Generation and Jennie from Kids…
In this movie, mute femme fatale George (cult teen-queen Rose McGowan) joins devilish forces with two escaped convicts on the road to New Mexico in search of a gold mine. From George’s drug-baron tarred history to Lewis’s trigger-happy persona, there are warning bells from the off-set and this unity makes for a troublesome trio. But whilst George adopts silence, her sense of style speaks for itself – leopard fur coat, hot-pants and jet-black bangs with one vital accessory, a gun.
Chlöe Sevigny made her debut on-screen appearance as the controversial Jennie in Larry Clark's 1995 cult film Kids. With her doe-eyed stare, boyish haircut and androgynous clothes to match, she battles with HIV on screen, in a film which paints a landscape of youth-culture riddled with drugs, underage sex and debauchery. We couldn't resist putting her on the cover of Dazed, shot by Rankin in 1996.
In David Lynch’s 1990 crime thriller, Lula and her boyfriend, Sailor, are on the run from her tyrannical mother. Lula’s style is illustrative of her life of mayhem on the road – tight black dresses, loosely crimped hair, a leather jacket thrown over one shoulder, a slick of red lipstick and a pair of wild red stilettos, just for good measure.
It would be unjust to chart on-screen rebels without giving a special mention to Amy Blue in The Doom Generation. Another of McGowan’s iconic characters, speedfreak Amy Blue is trapped in a seedy realm of violent eroticism and motels dripping with sex in a dark and twisted underworld. Her rebellion is far from desirable, however her sense of style is quite the opposite – perspex cat-eye glasses and PVC outerwear are staples in the heat of 90s nostalgia.
A drug-smuggling call-girl has never before looked so sickly sweet. Teaming pink leopard leggings and cow-print skirts with peasant blouses and matchy-matchy lingerie, Alabama Whitman’s trashy but cute Americana wardrobe disguises her darker, far more aggressive side. A wizard with a corkscrew, her skills surpass merely cracking open a bottle of wine...
A teenage junkie, criminal and murderer who escapes jail by way of conspiracy, Nikita is subjected to a far more thrilling fate. Trained as a top-secret assassin, the style-savvy seductress works a gun and heels like no other, making her transition from drug-popping degenerate to femme fatale all the more intriguing.
The awkward moment where you ask your parents to explain the birds and the bees…. Like Kids, The Ice Storm isn’t afraid to confront adolescent, or even prepubescent sex, exploring the concept with humour. Much to the awkward embarrassment of her father, Wendy manages to seduce her male family friend whilst wearing a Richard Nixon mask, a task made possible by her sexual precocity.
Played by Hillary Swank, transgender Brandon Teena is subjected to abuse, rape and eventually murder by his male acquaintances who are unable to come to terms with the fact that he is anatomically female. Boys Don’t Cry explores love, identity and courage in the rawest sense, fuelled by the fact that it actually recounts the real life story of Brandon Teena who was murdered in 1993.
Michael Beck plays Swan in Walter Hill’s cult action thriller The Warriors, a superlative account of gang warfare and the spiral of destruction. Always dressed in a leather waistcoat, Swan is a born leader. He’s a muscle-clad fighter and a man of very few words – the ultimate 1970s bad-boy pin-up.
John Waters' 1990 teen comedy stars a young Johnny Depp as 1950s Baltimore bad-boy Cry-Baby. Dressed in rugged leather and frayed denim with super-slicked back hair, he transforms from devilish delinquent to dreamy and desirable when he wins over the heart of good-girl Allison, making him a rebel with a cause (and a heart for that matter).
You can follow The Rebel Journey at Milan Design Week this April by signing up with Hogan Rebel
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