Haider Ackermann AW14

Industrial noise soundtracks a collection of suspended layers and shadowy textures

Fashion Show
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Anja Rubik (IMG) backstage at Haider Ackermann AW14 Shot by Jacques Habbah

Initial reaction:

All is not as it seems. A shadowy collection of dark wool conceals a mastery in draping and layering – soft tailoring suspended by belts – pristine, slender silhouettes, and a seductive interplay of textures, with glossy black python played against velvets, wool and dark furs.

Hair and make up:

Black fabric wrapped tight around the head, with a strip of hair woven through the back and up over the front in a graphic stripe. Eyebrows were penciled on, thin and arching, like Marlene Dietrich.

Atmosphere:

Industrial noise and the beating of propellers mixed with classical scores, such as Schubert.

How they wore it:

With hands pressed into pockets. Trousers were either long and languid, dragging at the feet, or cropped atop black ankle boots. Sweatshirt jackets came lined with a sumptuous fur, and a brown and black hounds tooth jacket had wide angular, eighties shoulders.

In the details:

Column dresses with high turtlenecks featured a slender keyhole reveal down the front, and were draped at the back to resemble a top and skirt. Long wool sweater sleeves poked through blazer cuffs and fell over hands.

Models: Anja Rubik (@anjarubikblog), Martyna Budna, Irina Kravchenko (@iriska_kravchenko), Sasha Luss (@RealSashaLuss), Ronja Furrer (@furrerronja), Josephine La Tutour (@JosephineLT_), Anmari Botha (@anmafatty), Katlin Aas (@AasKatlin), Maartje Verhoef (@maartjeverhoef), Grace Bol (@gracebol), Manuela Frey (@FreyTatjana), Elodia Prieto (@Elodiaprieto), Franzi Mueller (@FranziMueller),  Alana Zimmer (@zimzimzimmer), Kristy Kaurova (@kristy_kaurova), Larissa Hoffman (@larryhofmann), Daiane Conterato (@daianeconterato), Julia Nobis, Megan Thompson.

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