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Carolina Sjostrand (Premium) backstage at Maison Martin Margiela AW14Shot by Lea Colombo

Maison Martin Margiela AW14 + live stream

Feeding from codes of the past with repurposed tweed jackets and thigh high Tabi boots

Initial reaction:

An exercise in elevating the banal and re-constructing codes of the past.

Unexpected details: 

Leather slabs taken from men’s brogues were transformed into skin-tight leather collars – a subversive take on British formalities, something Margiela does so very well.

Re-worked obsessions: 

After Margiela’s SS14 Artisanal show – which told the story of obsessive collectors through repurposed tattoo prints and trash turned couture – it seemed only fitting that this season the elusive house would follow suit. Men’s Harris tweed jackets were pulled apart to create new garments, the original labels still in tack and exposed on the backs of the designs honouring the fabric’s identity. Meanwhile sheer 1930s slip dresses were layered over baby blue pin-striped shirts. 

How they wore it: 

With a variation of metallic red Tabi boots (some even extended up the entire thigh) and with patent python ‘pop-up bags’ which were carried on the hips and attached to garments with dog leads. 


Masculine, but given an air of femininity by thin leather belts that gave the garments shape.

Rewatch the Maison Martin Margiela AW14 show below.

Models: Carolina Sjostrand (@carolinasjostrand), Marique Schimmel (@mariqueschimmel), Elodia Prieto (@Elodiaprieto), Maja Salamon, Lena Hardt (@lenaobao), Ondria Hardin (@IamOndriaHardin), Lisa Verberght (@lisaverberght), Emmy Rappe, Maggie Jablonski, Annemijn Dijs (@annemijndijs), Katlin Aas (@AasKatlin), Ashleigh Good (@ashinstagood), Mijo Mihaljcic (@mijomihaljcic), Alexandra Elizabeth (@AlexandraLjadov), Caroline Farneman, Julie Hoomans (@Julie_Hoomans), Emma Waldo (@waldoemma).

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