Jason Wu AW14

Wu pays homage to a 90s Gwyneth Paltrow in slinky metallics and spaghetti straps

Fashion Show
Backstage at Jason Wu AW14
Elisabeth Erm (Wilhelmina) backstage at Jason Wu AW14 Shot by Kathy Lo

Initial impression:

We've seen 90s street wear come back around, but here, Jason Wu throws a welcome back party for the decade's elegant evening hallmarks: bias cut dresses with spaghetti straps, velvet gowns, dressed-up turtle necks, and the long-lost-but-not-forgotten cowl neck. Welcome, all of you, on behalf of Jason Wu and fans of 90s Gwyneth Paltrow everywhere.

Set:

Marble archways with carved keystones lined the runway. If you added a smoke machine and some ivy, it would have looked like the set for a minimal Kate Bush music video.

Shoes:

For all the show's moodiness, metallic t-strap shoes brought in an element of Jason Wu glamour. Even with as many trousers on the runway as dresses, he can't resist a pop of all-out feminine fancy.

Karlie:

It surprises no one to see Karlie Kloss close a show. But seeing her in a bias-cut velvet chiffon dress--the update of a style we saw on so many of the great 90s supers – feels particularly nice. Like everything in the universe is connected.

Late start:

When the show finally began, the house lights went down for almost a minute before the show began. Though that sounds like a short time, it's rare to be sitting silently in the dark with a massive crowd of people. When's the last time you were awake without visual or aural stimulation? That palette cleansing pause (even if accidental) should open every show.

Gwyneth Paltrow
Gwyneth Paltrow in the 90s
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