Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS14

An eclectic dressing up box of ivy and crab prints in homage to the Schiaparelli archive

Fashion Show
Look 7

Initial reaction:

The most eclectic and idyllic dressing up box, where one might find ruched printed tea dresses, mannish tailoring, Napoleonic hats created by Stephen Jones, silk gazer cloud sleeved jackets and trailing silk chiffon and ruffled skirts in bonbon pastel shades. Marco Zanini's gained a flighty whimsical streak since moving over to helm this storied house.

Print story:

Elsa Schiaparelli was famous for prints that were considered quirky for their time as they featured anything from circus scenes to music notes. Marco Zanini commissioned his own set of hand painted prints with names like Les Garcons du Jardin (depicting a boy's head turning into tulips) and Les Gardiens (a repeat pattern of children of an exotic tribe.)

Stand out look:

Maria Loks in a mint green brocade trouser suit with iridescent ivy leaves inspired by Schiaparelli's 1938 Pagan collection (reiterated in the opening foyer filled with ivy leaves and cherry blossoms.) The jacket had black velvet leg-o-mutton sleeves embroidered with little crabs – a direct descendent to Schiaparelli's famous lobster motif.

How they wore it:

Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman defined an eclectic cast of characters for this free spirited collection by giving everyone their own characteristic hairstyle – a blunt fringe of electric blue, a mass of pastel curls, wet look Marcel waves with grungy streaked hair and an unexpected flame hued homage to both Sonia Rykiel and Grace Coddington.

Soundtrack:

A montage of Wes Anderson film scores from Moonrise Kingdom and The Royal Tenenbaums. Their twinkly notes and nostalgic undertones made you feel like a greedy child in a sweet shop wanting more of everything as you saw all the famed French savoir faire houses showcasing their prowess in embroidery, feather work and techniques like hand-cut velvet.

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