Kenzo Homme AW14

Twilight landscapes, vinyl knit and philosophical statements offer altered perspectives

Fashion Show
Kenzo-8643

Initial reaction:

Altered perspectives: designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim explore the possibilities of new ways of seeing, through philosophical statement and landscape prints inspired by America’s northwest. The show space comprised of lots of small houses, sliced through with spotlights like light through a window.

Philosophy:

“There are things in life our eyes can not see/Sometimes nature plays a trick/We imagine we are something other than what we truly are”

Thought provoking statements branded sweatshirts and zip jackets, interspersed with prints of cogs, nuts and bolts. We were being encouraged to view the collection outside of what it was, to notice the details – like an embroidered bird on a jacket made up of graphic cog shapes – and imbue our own meaning to the pieces.

How they wore it:

Beanies pulled down almost over the eyes emphasised the concept of truly seeing versus merely looking, while the cool thick soled leather boots – almost nineties buffalo style – were embellished with tiny metal bolts and nuts. Jackets were layered one over the other, with contrasting collars and hoods pulled through, while sweatshirts were worn over suit jackets.

Stand out looks:

American northwest landscapes of mountains and forests were reimagined in leather and suede collage over long coats and bombers. The simplistic organic shapes of icy blue, lilac and purple ­– and wooden cabins with yellow lit windows – seemed to show the landscape at dusk, or a peaceful twilight hour. A jumper with a striped nuts and bolts pattern read ‘what we see in this world is based on someone’s idea’. Gold teddy bear fur jackets and coats felt luxurious among the streetwear silhouettes.

Colour impressions:

Canary yellow jackets and coats appeared embossed, and up close looked like knitwear glossed with a vinyl finish – a strike of light in a collection of dark greys, mossy greens and dark teal, like the lights that shone through the houses of the set. Early fuzzy grid patterns, like neon lights, were trippy additions to trousers and zip jackets.

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