Kolor AW14

Quiet Japanese deconstructionism in languid silhouettes, subtle print and leather patches

Fashion Show
kolor cover

Initial reaction:

A refined Japanese deconstructionism, as designer Junichi Abe layers quiet prints with patched details and languid silhouettes.

Deconstructed:

Subtle deconstruction details for a Tokyo based label: a light grey suit was dotted with tan leather patches, albeit in the most practical of places – under arms, strengthening button holes and between the knees. Silk jackets in spots and a very subtle cheetah print came with herringbone lining, while a windowpane suit with oddly rounded shoulders saw taupe lining peep from under the lapels like it had been cut slightly too big. A chocolate wool coat stopped abruptly at the waist to form a suit in steely grey.

Silhouette:

Languid trousers that bunched around the lace up sneakers and dragged a little on the floor in check and stripe. Loose coat layers and thick polo necks, with no definition at the waist. A deep V always seemed to feature in the look, whether as a chevron pattern, v-neck sweater, or sharp suit lapels.

Stand out looks:

A knee length city coat in blue and taupe stripe, with matching baggy trousers, was spliced at the sleeves with thick tan leather. The shrunken Nordic knits, which with the soft powder blues, lilacs and taupe belied a milder, light winter (in comparison to the dark wool looks we have come to expect from the season.)

Boy meets girl:

Barefaced and with un-brushed hair, the girls almost slipped past unnoticed. The boyish silhouette skimmed the waist, and the same lace up sneakers remained. A languid midnight blue dress was gathered around the hips by the hands held in pockets of equally roomy midnight blue trousers. A splice of light came from a single tan leather patch on the shoulder.

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